Italian suits

What "Italian" means in a suit

It is a way of cutting, not a label. The Italian tailors took the English suit and removed weight from it: less padding in the shoulder, a lighter canvas, a higher armhole so the sleeve moves without the body moving, a slightly shorter jacket, trousers that sit cleanly without a pleat fighting the hip. The result is a suit that looks dressed and feels like a cardigan.

That is why it belongs in Mumbai. The English cut was built for a cold island and a stiff posture. The Italian one was built for heat, movement and a man who talks with his hands. Everything we make starts from it.

The house cut

A natural shoulder with a little rope at the sleeve head, so the line reads without the padding. A lapel wide enough to balance a broad chest, drawn to your frame rather than to a fashion. A clean, slightly suppressed waist. Side vents. A trouser with a medium rise and a plain front, the break set on you at the fitting. Mustard, sky and bottle green as the colours that show the cut off, when a client wants colour.

Italian cut, Indian occasion

The Italian hand works as well on a bandhgala as on a suit: the same light canvas, the same soft shoulder, a collar set on your neck. A Nehru jacket cut this way is the most comfortable formal garment a man can own here.