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BespokeArtigiano AlessandroItalian formal wear
Illustration: an ivory Nehru jacket with a mandarin collar on a tailor's dummy

Bespoke · Mumbai

The Nehru jacket

A hip-length coat with a mandarin collar, cut to your frame.

Indian in its line, Italian in its making

The Nehru jacket and the bandhgala are the formal coats of India: a standing mandarin collar, a closed front, a clean hip length. Made well, they are as sharp as any dinner jacket and far better suited to a Mumbai evening.

We make them the way we make a suit. Your measurements, your pattern, a canvas chest made by hand so the front keeps its shape, and a fitting on you before the collar is finished. The collar is where a Nehru jacket is won or lost, and it is set on your neck, not on a form.

What it is worn with

Over a kurta or a shirt, with trousers or churidars. Ivory, midnight blue and deep bottle green are the colours we are asked for most; a jacquard or a raw silk for the ceremony, a fine wool for the office.

Illustration: hand stitching on a navy collar edge

The details

What you decide

Collar

Height and stand set on your neck at the fitting.

Closure

Covered buttons, horn, or metal; five to seven, spaced to your height.

Cloth

Raw silk, jacquard, fine wool, linen for daytime.

Lining

Plain or contrast; a monogram if you want it.

Book an appointment

A consultation costs nothing. Tell us the occasion and the date, and we take it from there.

Questions

What people ask us

What is the difference between a Nehru jacket and a bandhgala?

A bandhgala is the full-sleeved, closed-front coat; the Nehru jacket is its sleeveless or lighter cousin, often worn as a waistcoat over a kurta. We make both to measure.

Can a Nehru jacket be worn to a wedding?

It is one of the most correct things a man can wear to an Indian wedding, for the groom or a guest. Choose the cloth for the ceremony, not the reception, and you can wear it to both.

How long does a bespoke Nehru jacket take?

We confirm the date at the consultation. Tell us the event date first.

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