Bespoke · Mumbai
Bespoke jackets
The blazer, the sports jacket, the Nehru jacket and the dinner jacket, cut from your pattern.
The jacket you wear when a suit is too much
Most days in Mumbai do not ask for a suit. They ask for a jacket that makes a shirt and trousers into an outfit: a navy blazer over grey flannel, a linen jacket over a white shirt, a check sports jacket with chinos. The odd jacket is the hardest garment to buy ready, because it is worn open, moves more than a suit jacket, and shows every flaw in the shoulder. It is the garment bespoke improves most.
Every jacket we make starts from your pattern, with a canvas chest made by hand where the cloth asks for one (a linen blazer may take a light canvas or none), a shoulder as soft or as built as your frame asks, and a fitting on you before the collar is finished. The lining is yours to choose; see custom linings.
The jackets we make
The navy blazer, in a hopsack or a fine worsted, with horn or metal buttons, patch or flap pockets. The one jacket that goes with everything. The linen blazer, unstructured, for the heat and the weekend. The sports jacket in a check, a tweed for the north, a cotton for the day, cut a touch easier than a suit jacket. The Nehru jacket and bandhgala, the formal coat of India, cut with a Neapolitan hand. The dinner jacket, in midnight blue or black, for black tie done properly.
How a blazer differs from a suit jacket
An odd jacket is cut slightly shorter and easier than a suit jacket, with a softer shoulder and often patch pockets, so it looks right over a trouser in a different cloth. Wearing a suit jacket on its own is the mistake most men make; the cloth and the cut tell everyone there are trousers missing. A jacket made to be a jacket does not.
The details
What you decide
Shoulder
Natural and soft for a blazer or a linen jacket; built only if your frame asks for it.
Pockets
Patch pockets for ease, flap or jetted for formality, a ticket pocket if you like one.
Buttons
Horn, mother-of-pearl, or metal on a blazer; two or three; a single button on a dinner jacket.
Lining
Full, half, quarter or unlined, in a colour you choose. The inside is yours.
Book an appointment
A consultation costs nothing. Tell us the occasion and the date, and we take it from there.
Questions
What people ask us
Bespoke blazer or bespoke suit, which should I order first?
If you wear a suit to work, the suit. If most of your days are a jacket and trousers, the navy blazer; it is worn more than any suit will be.
Do you make a blazer for a wedding?
Yes. For a guest, a navy or a mid-blue blazer with a light trouser; for the groom at a daytime wedding, a linen or a cream jacket. For the ceremony itself, see the Nehru jacket and the wedding suits page.
How long does a bespoke jacket take?
We confirm the date at the consultation, with at least one fitting on you before it is finished. Tell us the event date first.
Can I bring my own cloth for a jacket?
Bring it to the consultation and we will say honestly whether it will make up well and how much is needed; a jacket needs less cloth than a suit.