Bespoke · Mumbai
Bespoke shirts
Your collar, your cuff, your cloth. Cut from a pattern that is yours.
A shirt is the garment you wear most and think about least
Most men own fifteen shirts and like two of them. The two fit at the collar, sit flat under a jacket and do not balloon at the waist. The rest were bought by size, and a size is a guess about ten thousand men at once. A bespoke shirt begins from your neck, your shoulder slope, the length of your arms (they are rarely the same) and how you like a cuff to sit on your watch.
We draw the pattern once and keep it. The first shirt is the one we learn from; the second and the tenth are quicker and better still. We suggest starting with two or three in plain white and pale blue, then adding colour and pattern once the fit is settled.
Cloth: Egyptian cotton, Giza, linen, and honest poplin
The cloth decides how a shirt feels at four in the afternoon. Egyptian and Giza cotton is the long-staple cotton that spins fine and stays soft after a hundred washes; it is the cloth for a white dress shirt that must sit under a jacket all day. Linen is the cloth for Mumbai heat and a weekend. A good two-fold poplin or a fine twill from the swatch books is the quiet choice for the office, and we will tell you plainly which of the three a particular shirt needs.
The details that are yours to decide
Collar: spread, semi-spread, cutaway, button-down, a tall band for a tie or a short one for an open neck. Cuff: barrel with one or two buttons, or a double cuff for links. Front: plain placket or French. Buttons in mother-of-pearl, sewn on by hand so they stand off the cloth. A monogram on the cuff, the chest or the hem, in a colour you choose or one nobody will notice.
The details
What you decide
Collar
Spread, semi-spread, cutaway or button-down; the height set to your neck and to whether you wear a tie.
Cuff
One or two buttons, a double cuff for links, or a cocktail cuff. Cut to sit over your watch.
Fit
Close through the body without pulling at the chest; the yoke and sleeve length set on you.
Monogram
Initials on the cuff, the chest or the hem, in a thread colour you choose.
Book an appointment
A consultation costs nothing. Tell us the occasion and the date, and we take it from there.
Questions
What people ask us
How much does a bespoke shirt cost in Mumbai?
The price depends on the cloth and the work in it. We quote at the consultation, once the cloth is chosen, and the price does not move after that. Ask us for a figure before you decide.
How many shirts do I need to order?
Start with one if you like; we suggest two or three in plain colours so the fit is settled before colour and pattern. Your pattern is kept, so every later shirt is quicker.
Egyptian cotton or Giza cotton, which should I choose?
Giza is the name of the finest Egyptian long-staple cottons, so a Giza shirt is an Egyptian cotton shirt of a known grade. For a white dress shirt worn under a jacket, Giza. For everyday, a good two-fold Egyptian poplin.
Do you make shirts for a wedding?
Yes. A white or ivory shirt in Giza cotton with a double cuff for the groom; for a bandhgala, a band-collar shirt cut to sit inside the collar. Tell us the date first.
Can you copy a shirt I already love?
Bring it. We measure the shirt and you, keep what works and fix what does not; usually the collar and the sleeve.