Bespoke · Mumbai
Bespoke trousers
The rise, the pleat and the break, set on you.
Trousers are where a ready suit gives itself away
A jacket hides a lot. Trousers hide nothing: a rise that is too low pulls at the seat when you sit, a leg that was shortened without being re-tapered goes wide at the hem, a waist taken in by a tailor leaves the pockets gaping. Most men live with it because trousers are the garment nobody is supposed to look at. People look.
A bespoke trouser starts from your waist and your seat, the length of your rise, how you stand and how you sit. The pattern is drawn to that, the cloth cut to the pattern, and the break set on you at the fitting with the shoes you will wear. They are made to be worn with a jacket or without one, and they are made to be sat in.
Cloth, by season and by use
A fine worsted wool for the trousers of a suit and for a grey trouser that goes with every jacket you own. Flannel for winter and the north, soft and warm with a chalky surface. Linen for Mumbai heat and the weekend. Cotton drill or a fine chino cloth for a trouser that is sharper than jeans and easier than wool. Fresco, an open-weave wool, for the man who wants wool in the hottest months.
The decisions that make them yours
Rise: medium for most men, higher if you wear a waistcoat or like a trouser to sit at the waist rather than the hip. Front: flat, or one or two forward pleats, which give room at the thigh and a cleaner line when you sit. Waist: a belt, or side adjusters, which hold the waist cleanly without a belt crushing the line of a jacket. Hem: plain or a turn-up. Lining to the knee in wool, so the trouser slides over the leg and the cloth lasts twice as long.
The details
What you decide
Rise
Medium or high, set on you; a high rise with side adjusters under a waistcoat.
Pleats
Flat front, or one or two forward pleats for room and drape.
Waist
Belt loops, or side adjusters and a clean waistband with a hidden extension.
Hem
Plain or a turn-up; the break set at the fitting with your shoes on.
Book an appointment
A consultation costs nothing. Tell us the occasion and the date, and we take it from there.
Questions
What people ask us
How much do bespoke trousers cost in Mumbai?
It depends on the cloth and the work in them. We quote at the consultation once the cloth is chosen, and the price does not move. Ask us for a figure before you decide.
Can I order trousers on their own, without a suit?
Yes. A grey flannel or a stone linen trouser cut to your pattern goes with every jacket you own, and it is a good first thing to order.
Can you cut a second pair of trousers for my suit?
Yes, and we suggest it at the start for a suit you will wear often. Trousers wear out before jackets; a second pair from the same bolt doubles the life of the suit.
Pleats or flat front?
Flat front for a slim frame and a close jacket; forward pleats for room at the thigh, a cleaner line when seated and a high-rise trouser. We show you both at the fitting.
Can you copy a pair of trousers I love?
Bring them. We measure the trousers and you, keep what works and correct the rest. The rise and the seat are usually where a ready pair fails.